DOMINICA

It's been said that if Colombus returned to the Caribbean today this is the only island that he would still recognise. Dominica (pronounced Domineeeka and not to be confused with the Dom. Rep.) has adopted the title "Nature Island".

This is the Jurassic Park of the Windward Islands and a botanist's paradise. Its towering volcanic interior is host to a huge variety of trees, orchids and other plant life. This is also a firm favourite for birdwatchers and the critically endangered Sisserou and Jacqout parrots can be seen in the north of the island.

The island's scenery is stunning with mountains plunging deep into the Caribbean to the west and the Atlantic to the east. Volcanic activity is still apparent in the islands hot springs and the Boiling Lake, which is the second largest of its kind in the world and well worth the long and muddy trek to see. Dominica is a mecca for hikers with plenty of jungle trails that invariably seem to end in cascading waterfalls or splendid views. The dramatic scenery continues underwater and Dominica has developed a reputation as one of the Caribbean’s top dive destinations. Whales and dolphins are seen off the coast Guantanamo for much of the year and whale watching trips are easily arranged.

There is little development on Dominica, even the capital Roseau is a sleepy little town that seems to be clinging onto one of the only flat areas on the island (don't expect any golf courses) and the hotels, lodges and guesthouses we use here are typically small, intimate, often family run and almost invariably are beautifully located with spectacular views. English is the official language of Dominica spoken with a wonderfully infectious East Caribbean drawl.

Roseau

Dominica's capital is a colourful mixture of old gingerbread style wooden houses with balconies and tin-roofs. It's a relaxed and friendly town and a good base from which to explore the island. There are some great little bars and restaurants in town where you can experiment with the many flavours of local soak rum and perhaps try the Dominican delicacy "Mountain Chicken" which is in fact a large frog called the Crapaud. The lively market at the north end of the Bay Front is worth exploring and the Dominican Museum housed in the old post office on the sea front provides an intriguing insight into the Indian and colonial history of Dominica. Take time to stroll around the Botanical Gardens on the outskirts of Roseau, it's a popular place for Dominicans to relax and meet up and a great place to park yourself on a bench and people watch. On Friday evenings most of the islanders seem to be out on the streets for music and barbeques which is fun to join in with.

Trafalgar Falls and Middleham Falls

These are both reasonably close to Roseau in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. There is a clear and easy trail to the viewing platform at Trafalgar but the more adventurous may wish to climb the boulders to the bathing pool at the base of the falls and take a dip under the full force of the cool mountain water. Middleham Falls are arguably the more dramatic of the two and also less accessible. It's at least a challenging one and a half hour hike to get to this 250 feet high waterfall but it's worth it. You'll probably have the place to yourself as you bathe in the top-tier plunge pool and enjoy the secluded valley scenery.

Soufriere Bay and Scotts Head

The diving off Scotts Head is some of the best in Dominica but there's plenty above water to attract land lubbers. Here are traditional Dominican fishing villages and you're likely to see colourfully painted boats and canoes hand carved from a single tree trunk . Mountain bikes are available for hire and if you can't face the prospect of the mountainous interior then at least cycle around this beautiful horse-shoe bay to Scotts Head where the Atlantic is on one side of the isthmus and the Caribbean on the other. There are spectacular views across to a high rocky cliff face from which, as local legend has it, unfaithful spouses were tied up and cast to their deaths. Kayaks are also available for a paddle around the bay.

Boiling Lake and the Valley of Desolation

This sounds like an Indiana Jones film and you may feel that you're starring in it once you start this challenging six hour round trip hike. The boiling lake is approached through the Valley of Desolation where the forest and vegetation has been laid to waste by sulphur emissions. If you had any doubts that you were on a volcanic island then they should be quashed by the time you complete the hike.

Emerald Pool

Reached by a short walk though varied woodland, the Emerald Pool is a small waterfall in a natural grotto that makes a pretty alternative to some of the larger scale natural attractions of Dominica. However, it's to be avoided whenever a cruise ship docks. Because it's easily accessible the cruisers tend to head straight there in throngs and proceed to make as much noise as possible.

The Carib Territory

A large area of coast and land on the more rugged east coast of the island was given back to descendants of the islands original inhabitants in 1903. The Carib chief is democratically elected to represent the interests of the Carib people and to promote their identity. A guide is recommended to make the most of your visit here, to understand the history and craftwork of this seafaring people. The Caribs originally came to Dominica from South America in dug out canoes which are still made locally and used for fishing. Pottery and basket work are traditional Carib crafts which are still practised. A "wife-leader" makes an interesting souvenir of your trip to Dominica.

Morne Diablotins

Highest point in Dominica and second highest in the Lesser Antilles. Morne Diablotins (Little Devil) is cloaked in dense vegetation but a trail can take you to the top in 2 to 3 hours. The trek will take you through dry scrubland, deciduous woodland, tropical rainforest, cloud forest, elfin woodland and finally over bare rock at the peak. You will be rewarded with the finest panoramic views over Dominica and across to Marie Galante, Les Saintes, Guadeloupe and even Martinique.

Syndicate Nature Reserve

One of the shortest but most delightful trails on Dominica that takes you through mature tropical rainforest where there is plenty to see including most of the islands tree species, orchids, air plants, bromeliads and huge "birds nest" anthurium. There are some fabulous look out points as well but the star turn of this trail is the opportunity it affords to glimpse the rare Sisserou and Jacquot parrots.

Indian River

Named after the Carib Indians who used to live along it's banks, a journey up the Indian River is a major highlight of your trip to Dominica. Mullet, pike, crayfish and crabs live in the river and waterfowl, herons, kingfishers, egrets, red-necked pigeons, hummingbirds and iguanas along its banks. You will meander for a mile and a half up river through mangroves and caves of vegetation with occasional glimpses of Dominica’s highest peaks. At the furthest point of your trip you stop at a ramshackle wooden jungle bar for refreshment. Try a shot of the local rum punch called "Dynamite" but just the one or its likely that you'll sing all the way back and scare off the wildlife. On that note it's important to only take a row boat up the river. Noisy outback motors defeat the point of the trip.

Portsmouth

Originally intended to be the capital, Dominica's second largest town is a great spot for a few lazy beachy days with good sandy strips to the north and south of the town. There's a wonderful fruit, veg and spices market held here a couple of times a week..

Cabrits National Park

The Cabrits peninsula and National Park dominates the bay to the north of Portsmouth and contains the ruins of the eighteenth century Fort Shirley, the volcanic peaks of East and West Cabrit, tropical forest, the largest swamp on the island, sandy beaches and coral reefs. Fort Shirley Museum and ruins provide an opportunity to find out about the islands colonial past.