ARGENTINA PRACTICALITIES

Facts and Figures

Area: 2,780,400 sq km

Population: 37,812,817

Capital: Buenos Aires

Passport/Visa requirements

Make sure your passport is valid for six months beyond intended stay. No visa is necessary for British citizens, who are given a tourist card on entry and may stay for up to 3 months. Visitors should ideally carry passports at all times, it is illegal not to have identification handy (backpackers are often subject to thorough searches). All other nationalities should contact the relevant Embassy or Consulate for information.

Geography

Comprising almost the entire southern half of South America, Argentina is the world’s eighth largest country covering an area of 2.8 million sq. km. The western boundaries of the country fall entirely within the Andes mountain range, from low and deeply glaciated regions in the Patagonian south to a high and dry plateau extending northwest towards the Bolivian Altiplano. The northern area is equally diverse containing volcanic peaks, salt lakes and subtropical lowlands in the west; savanna, thorny forest and vast floodplains in the central area; and swampy lowland forests that become more dense, raised and tropical in the northeastern Misiones province. The vast, rich plains of The Pampas make up the heart of the country, stretching for hundreds of km in unrelieved flatness, covering some 650,000 sq. km. Patagonia lies south of the Rio Colorado and is a land of arid, wind-swept, treeless steppe. Tierra del Fuego in the far south has grassy steppe, dense forests and mountain glaciers.

Climate

The northern sub-tropical provinces can be particularly wet and humid in August and September. By contrast the far southern areas and routes to Chile across the Andes can become fairly inaccessible and blocked by snow in the winter months (June, July, August). Buenos Aires can be oppressively hot and humid from mid-December through to the end of February but if you can bear the heat this is the best time for visiting the mountain areas elsewhere. It is worth noting, however, that January is the Argentine summer holiday period and Patagonia and the Lake District further west can be very crowded.

Language

Spanish, with variant words and pronunciation, is the first language although some people speak English (particularly in the tourist areas) and French, German and Italian. Most Quechua-speakers, numerous in the northwest, are bilingual in Spanish. At least 40,000 Mapuche-speakers live in the southern Andes, while a similar amount of Guarani, Tobas and Matacos-speakers live in northeastern Argentina.

Money

The currency of Argentina is the Peso, which is divided into 100 centavos. No longer pegged with the US dollar, the recent devaluation of the peso means that Argentina is a lot cheaper to visit than it used to be. At present, the peso has shrunk to about a third of its former value and the exchange rate is now in the region of US$ 1 = 3.16). US dollars are no longer accepted officially, but under the current economic climate, many shopkeepers would be glad to take them. Make sure they are in good condition. Take $US and cash and $ travellers cheques. ARS (Jan 2006). US dollars are no longer accepted officially, but under the current economic climate, many shopkeepers would be glad to take them. Make sure they are in good condition. Take $US and cash and $ travellers cheques.

It is often difficult to change travellers’cheques, particularly at weekends and in the smaller towns. There is a 3% tax on them and commissions can be as high as 10% (banks are generally 4%). Travellers’cheques are often scrutinized very closely so make sure your signatures are the same, also the transaction can take a long time. Citibank travellers’cheques are worthwhile and can be changed commission free at their own branches around the country. Most major towns have Casas de Cambios to change money and the exchange rates are quoted in major newspapers daily. The most convenient (and given the recent fluctuating value of the peso, accurate) way of accessing money is by using ATM withdrawals. ATMs (Cajeros Automaticos) are found everywhere in Buenos Aires and almost all other cities and towns. They are usually Banelco or Link, accepting international cards.

Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards (although outside of main towns card use is limited) but don’t solely rely on them as some travelers have recently reported problems getting vendors to accept them, in addition to many establishments imposing a high surcharge or recargo on transactions.

Religion

80% Roman Catholic, 7% Protestant with small Muslim and Jewish communities.

Time

3 hours behind GMT (4 in the summer)

Electricity

220V, 50Hz

Brief History

Two main indigenous groups existed in Argentina before the arrival of the Europeans. The Diaguita and Guarani Indians formed the origins of a permanent agriculture civilization and cultivated maize in the north. At this time there were also nomadic peoples hunting guanaco (a relative of the llama) and the ostrich-like rhea on the grasslands of the Pampas and Patagonia to the south. When, in the early 16th century, the first Europeans came to Argentina, the Diauita in the NW Andean highlands had already halted the Inca drive south from Peru through Bolivia. Indian resistance lso quashed the Spaniard’s early attempts at establishing a settlement in Buenos Aires and it wasn’t until under Hernando Arias de Saavedra (1592-1614) that the settlement at Buenos Aires became secure.  After 270 years serving as a colonial outpost, the town council of Buenos Aires firstly deposed of the Viceroy and then later, with a Spanish blockade and threat of invasion from Peru, Argentina finally declared its independence in 1816.  The declaration was given by Jose de San Martin, who marched an Argentine army across the Andes to free Chile and then went on to capture Lima, resulting in the first step in the liberation of Peru. 

However, independence bought neither unity nor stability and Argentine history has, in many ways, been a series of intense political struggles and bloody conflicts.   The caudillos, or local strongmen allied to conservative landowners, resisted Buenos Aires authority and the country thus became divided into Provincial Federalists and Unitarists (who looked to Europe for ideas, capital and immigrants). Some order was established under the first governor of Buenos Aires, Ferdinand de la Rosas, but his overthrow in 1852 unleashed another round of battles between the two factions and between Buenos Aires and the provinces. The former was finally established as the seat of federal government by Argentina’s first president, Bartolome Mitre. But political power still lay in the hands of a small number of landowners and their urban allies and consequently the Radicals came to power in 1916.

The military coup, which overthrew Radical president Yrigoyen in 1930, resulted in the armed forces returning to government, where they would play a major political role until 1983.

The legacy of Col. Juan Peron and his charismatic wife Eva began in 1946 when the military allowed a return to civilian rule. His strongly nationalistic party swept into power with policies to improve the lot of the workers. However, economic problems led to another military coup unseating Peron in 1955.

In exile his legacy dominated the turbulent years from 1955 to 1973, where the country was divided into Peronists and anti-peronists and marked by uneasy transitions of three military and two constitutional regimes. A peronist candidate won the elections in 1973 and Peron returned from Madrid only to die shortly into his presidency. The subsequent, chaotic political situation led to guerrilla warfare and finally the deposition of Peron’s 3rd wife (installed in power after his death) by a military junta led by General Jorge Videla in 1976.

The years that followed marked the period of the ‘Dirty War’, where over 9,000 Argentinean people ‘disappeared’ and dissidents were suppressed under the military dictatorship. General Galtieri replaced Videla and an ineffectual Viola in Dec 1981 as economic policies soured and a declining confidence in the military ensued. Possibly to boost nationalism, Argentina attempted to reclaim Isles Malvinas and the Falklands war broke out.

After this, pressure to return to a civilian government grew and Raul Alfonsin and his Union Civica Radical (UCR) won elections in 1983. His popularity waned, however, as his government failed to solve Argentina’s economic problems. ‘Peronist’ Menem followed and although his popularity also declined as he tried to appease the military, his economic Minister succeeded in restoring confidence and stability in the government by pegging the peso to the US dollar. In 1999 Fernando de la Rua of the Alliance for Work, Justice and Education (Alianza) won the elections but, after only a year, financial crises elsewhere in the world, high unemployment, corruption and a stagnant economy led the government to seek IMF assistance. A series of scandals led many ministers to resign and since then Argentina has struggled to control its worsening economic situation. 

Special Events

Carnival (start of Lent/ 6 weeks before Easter Sunday) is celebrated throughout the country with colourful processions and festivities in most major towns. Holy week in the Northwest of Argentina (Salta and the villages in Jujuy province) sees dancers clad in feathers, masks and mirrors parade in the streets. Watch out for water bombs dropped on passers by from balconies! There are gaucho parades throughout Argentina, with traditional music, on the days leading up to the Dia de la Tradicion,10 November.

Music

The most important components of traditional Argentine music are the gaucho folk song and dance; Native American music from the northern provinces; European influences; and to a minor extent African music. The tango that developed in Buenos Aires and became a favorite ballroom dance throughout much of the world is perhaps Argentina’s most famous contribution to modern music. Tango lessons can be enjoyed at lively milongas (tango parties) throughout Buenos Aires.

Getting Around

Air:

Internal air services (run by Aerolineas Argentinas and a number of smaller carriers serving specific areas such as Austral, LAPA, TAN etc) are a convenient time-saving method of covering the vast distances across Argentina. Air passes are available and must be purchased outside of the country. Meals are rarely served on internal flights. Don’t lose your baggage ticket; you won’t be able to collect your bags without it. Luggage is restricted to 15kg on some domestic flights and an excess charge of $3 per kilo is payable

Taxis:

Available in most cities and large towns and can be either hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks. They are usually recognizable by their yellow roofs. In Buenos Aires the meter starts charging at US $1.12 for journeys in the city (make sure the meter is set), while remis taxis, booked from an office, cost more but are usually more reliable.

Essentials

Shopping:

Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0900 – 1900 and Sat 0900- 1300. Outside the main cities many close for the daily afternoon siesta, reopening at about 1700. Look out for local leather goods in Buenos Aires such as coats, bags and shoes. Leather from the carpincho is from the capybara and should not be purchased. Artisan markets, throughout the country, are enjoyable places to shop and Ponchos (red and black for men, all colours for women), silver handicrafts,

Gaucho trousers (bombachas) and knitted woollens make good presents and souvenirs.

Tipping

Tips are theoretically outlawed but some hotels or restaurants will add 25% service charge. In these cases a minimal tip is still expected. Otherwise, 10% propina on top of the bill will suffice. The same applies in bars. Tipping is obviously up to the individual but considering the recent economic climate and low wages for many workers it is nice to offer something for good service. However, make sure you give it to the person rather than leave it on the table. Bargaining is customary in the Northwest, and in artisan markets countrywide.

British Embassy

Dr Luis Agote 2412, C1425EOF Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tel: (11) 4576 2222 or 4803 7799. Fax (11) 4803 1731

E-mail: mailmaster@baires.mail.fco.gov.uk

Website:www.britain.org.ar

Airport Departure

Return international flights must be confirmed 72 hours before departure. Many major international airlines have Buenos Aires offices (11), ring British Airways on 325-1059, LanChile on 311-5334, Iberia on 327-2739/52, Aerolineas Argentinas on 343-2071/89 and Air France on 327-0202.

International departure tax is US$18. Domestic flights carry a departure tax of about US$3. Our local representatives can help with flight reconfirmations.

Health

Medical Emergencies

In Buenos Aires and in some provinces Neuquen and Salta, medical assistance, including operations, X- ray and medication, is supposedly free in provincial hospitals, even for foreigners. Sometimes though you must pay for materials. All private clinics on the other hand, charge. Medicines are more expensive than in Europe. Inoculations are available at Guardia de Sanidad del Puerto at Ing Huergo 690, Mon and Thurs 0800-1200, Tel:4334 1875, bus 20 from Retiro, no appointment required. Urgent medical service: (day and night) Casualty Ward, Sala de guardia, for free municipal ambulance service to an emergency hospital department, Tel:4342 4001/4. Public Hospital: Hospital Argerich, Almte Brown esq Py y Margall 750, Tel:4931 5555. British Hospital, Perdriel 74, Tel: 4231 1081, www.hospbritanico.com.ar  US$14 a visit. Malaria risk, exclusively in the benign vivax form is low and exists in pockets in the provinces of Salta, Jujuy, Misiones (Iguazu) and Corrientes. Try to avoid being bitten by covering up after dark, wearing repellent containing DEET and protection, in the form of 300mg of chloroquine prophylaxis administered weekly, is advised. In the far south take sunscreen, as the ozone layer is thinner here.

Stomach Upsets:

As a general rule Argentine restaurants are clean and intestinal upsets are unlikely. Drinking water is rarely the culprit of diarrhoea and vomiting, more likely it is swimming in sewage-contaminated sea or rivers. Foods you should avoid however are uncooked, undercooked, partially cooked meat, fish, eggs, raw vegetables and salads, especially when they have been left out exposed to flies. Tap water is safe in urban areas but less so in rural areas, especially in the rainy season. Bottled mineral water is readily available and the central hot water supply of your hotel is fine to drink after cooling.

Communications

Useful numbers:

From Argentina to the UK: 00 + 44 + area code minus the 0 + number

To Argentina from abroad: 00 + 54

Post: The main post office in Buenos Aires is located on Sarmiento y Alem and is open Mon- Fri 0900-1930. Airmail to Europe takes between five to ten days. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2000,Sat 0800-1400.

Food and Drink

Argentinean food is, by and large, an inherited culture- an adaptation of Spanish, Italian, Arabic and other European influences. Beef is popular, of particular high quality and is consumed in a variety of ways. The most traditional is the parrilla or parrillada, the local version of the American barbecue. Popular local dishes include empanadas (minced meat and pastry turnover), empanada de humita (filled with paste of corn, onions, cheese and flour), locro (pork and maize stew), bife a caballo (steak topped with fried egg) and carbonada (onions, tomatoes, minced beef). Argentines are not great vegetable eaters, their choices seldom going beyond potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, onions, and garlic although they are mostly naturally grown and hence have much more flavour. Try the mixed salad (ensalada mixta). Vegetarians will find their choices very limited, although vegetarian empanadas are good.

Warnings

Argentina is one of the safest countries in South America but in the capital and other major cities there have been reports of travellers being sprayed with something like ketchup and then, as somebody ‘helpfully’ wipes it off, they have their wallet pinched. If sprayed walk straight on. Try to avoid looking too much like a tourist or looking vulnerable and be vigilant in crowded area such as bus and train stations and markets. At night care should be taken in the cities, walk in the road after dark in dangerous parts and leave valuables you don’t need in a safe-deposit at your hotel. In Buenos Aires, avoid political demonstrations and rallies, as they may become violent.